What are the hidden costs of cycling?

Beyond the bike, what hidden essentials should a beginner cyclist budget for?

TL;DR:
A bike is just the start. Essentials like a helmet, sunglasses, bibs, and clipless shoes ensure safety and comfort, while a repair kit and lights handle roadside issues and visibility. Accessories such as bottle cages and bottles keep riders fueled, and devices including bike computers, cadence and speed sensors, heart rate monitors, and power meters track metrics aimed at improving performance. The total cost of these essentials can match or exceed the bike itself, making prioritization key for beginners.

Happy New Bike Day! After investing a serious chunk of change into a brand-new bike, it’s tempting to think one is instantly ready to start chasing KOMs/QOMs on Strava. But like with any new purchase, there’s a hidden ecosystem of gear and accessories that unlocks the bike’s full potential and makes the experience safer, smoother, and more enjoyable for the rider

Most new bikes do not come with pedals, so before the first ride, pedals are often the very first additional purchase required. Once that is addressed, three main categories of essentials elevate the riding experience: Apparel (what is worn), Repair Kit (items carried for unexpected mechanical issues), and Bike Accessories (what attaches to the bike).

Apparel: 

A helmet is the most important safety purchase after the bike. A good pair of sunglasses comes next, providing protection from debris, wind, and glare—making them as much a piece of protective gear as a helmet, particularly in bright sunlight or dusty conditions. Any sunglasses can work initially, but investing in a dedicated cycling pair is worthwhile. These are designed to be less fragile, shaped for better coverage, and provide more consistent protection during rides.

For comfort, cycling bibs with a fitted chamois pad are the single best investment a beginner can make. They reduce saddle discomfort and open the door to longer, more enjoyable rides. Jerseys, on the other hand, are a much lower priority. A simple t-shirt works fine at first, though jerseys do add convenience with pockets, better breathability, and a bit of that “cyclist look.” Just don’t get pulled into the “aero” hype early on — comfort and safety matter far more when you’re starting out.

Once the basics are in place, clipless shoes and pedals can greatly enhance the enjoyment of longer rides. Despite the intimidating name, clipless shoes actually “clip in” and attach to the pedals, creating a more secure and efficient connection between the legs and the bike. There is a learning curve, but once the technique is mastered, pedaling efficiency improves, control is enhanced, and fatigue is reduced. Over time, using the clipless system builds confidence and helps develop stronger cycling skills, making each ride more rewarding.

Repair Kit

Alongside apparel and clipless pedals, carrying a small repair kit is a key step in ensuring a safe and stress-free ride. Punctures are the most common roadside issue, so a portable bike pump, a spare tube, and tire levers form the core of any beginner’s kit. For riders using a tubeless setup, a tubeless plug kit is essential for repairing any punctures the sealant cannot handle

While not strictly necessary, a dedicated bicycle multitool can provide convenience on the go, covering adjustments that may come up during a ride. However, it is also possible to get by with just a set of appropriately sized hex wrenches for the most common adjustments.

Bike Accessories

Once apparel and a repair kit are in place, a few key accessories make rides safer and more enjoyable. Bottle cages and bottles come first. Hydration and nutrition are essential for any ride, no matter the distance.

Lights are next, with the rear light prioritized to ensure visibility to drivers and other cyclists. A bright, reliable front light is also useful, but being seen from behind is most important for safety.

For riders focused on improving performance, a bike computer can be a valuable addition, especially when paired with a cadence sensor, speedometer, heart rate monitor, and power meter. For beginners, a phone can serve as a temporary substitute for tracking rides and performance until investing in a dedicated device.

The chart below breaks down all categories, their relative priority, and estimated costs, helping new cyclists see which items are truly essential and which are nice-to-haves. Equipping a bike properly ensures safety, comfort, and a more enjoyable ride from the very start.

Description	Category	Priority (1–5)	Estimated Cost	Product Link
Pedals (Any)	Bike Part	5	$55.00	Link
Helmet	Apparel	5	$115.00	Link
Bib	Apparel	4	$90.00	Link
Sunglasses	Apparel	4	$35.00	Link
Shoes (Clipless)	Apparel	3	$125.00	Link
Top, Jersey	Apparel	2	$90.00	Link
Bottle Cages, (2)	Bike Accessory	5	$20.00	Link
Bottles, (2)	Bike Accessory	5	$36.00	Link
Light, Rear	Bike Accessory	4	$45.00	Link
Light, Front	Bike Accessory	3	$55.00	Link
HRM	Bike Accessory	3	$49.99	Link
Cadence Sensor	Bike Accessory	3	$39.99	Link
Bike Computer	Bike Accessory	2	$279.99	Link
Power Meter	Bike Accessory	1	$700.00	Link
Speed Sensor	Bike Accessory	1	$39.90	Link
Portable Bike Pump	Repair Kit	5	$27.95	Link
Spare Tube	Repair Kit	5	$32.95	Link
Tire Levers	Repair Kit	5	$6.95	Link
Tubeless Plug	Repair Kit	3	$25.00	Link
Multi-Tool	Repair Kit	2	$33.00	Link

Priority is based on a scale of 1–5, with 5 representing the highest priority. All products are linked to REI as a convenient resource for finding outdoor apparel and equipment. These specific products are not necessarily recommendations, but are used only as examples to help estimate the budget for each category.

After accounting for apparel, a repair kit, and bike accessories, the total investment can reach around $1,900—the cost of an entry-level performance bike. Even purchasing just the highest-priority essentials (marked “5” in the chart) adds roughly $300. This highlights that the bike is only part of the overall cost. Many beginners assume that once the bike is purchased, the hard part is over. In reality, the accessories needed for a safe, comfortable ride can cost as much as—or even more than—the bike itself, a fact that often comes as a surprise.

My Setup: The Accessories

While the breakdown above outlines what a beginner cyclist might need, it may help to see how those essentials add up in practice. Below is my current personal setup, listed to give a sense of the additional investment beyond the bike itself. 

Pedals

• Power Meter and Cadence Sensor – Favero Assioma UNO

Apparel

• Shoes – Shimano RC3

• Helmet – Smith Persist MIPS

• Bib – The Black Bibs Ultimate Adventure Bibs

• Sunglasses – Smith Pursuit Photochromic Sunglasses

• Jersey – Budget-friendly Amazon options

Repair Kit

• Bike Pump – Rockbros Mini Electric Pump

• Spare Tube – Ridenow Tubes

• Tire Levers – Park Tool TL-1.2C

• Tubeless Plug – Dynaplug Racer Pro

• Multi-Tool – Daysaver Essential8 & Coworking5

Bike Accessories

• Heart Rate Monitor – Garmin Instinct 2 Solar

• Bottle Cages – Blackburn Wayside Side-Entry

• Bottles – CamelBak Podium 21oz (2 bottles)

• Bike Light, Front and Rear - Cygolite Metro and Hotshot

• Speed Sensor – Cannondale Speed Sensor

Total Accessories MSRP Cost: $2,295
Excludes any discounts, sales tax, or regional price differences.

Bike - Cannondale Synapse 2 (2023) MSRP Cost: $1,800

My setup reflects the order in which items were purchased, which generally mirrors the priority outlined at the start of the article. The only exceptions are the Garmin Instinct watch and the Favero Assioma power meter, which were acquired earlier while training on a stationary bike for another sport and later transferred to this bike. Taken together, the total cost of these accessories actually exceeds the MSRP of the Cannondale Synapse 2 itself, highlighting that the bike is only one part of the overall investment in a complete, ready-to-ride setup.

What is a “good” bike?

For many beginner cyclists, the first question is: ‘Is this a good bike?’”

TL;DR:
A “good” bike is one that doesn’t make your body hate you. The more aggressive the position, the faster it feels but the less forgiving it is on comfort. The more upright the position, the easier it is on your body even if it is not quite Tour de France ready.

• Race Road Bikes 

• Aggressive position with specialized gearing, designed for racing and fast group rides.

• Example: Trek Madone, Cannondale SuperSix, Specialized Tarmac, Cervélo S5, Giant Propel, and Canyon Aeroad

• Endurance Road Bikes 

• Less aggressive with wider gearing, a balance of climbing and speed on pavement

• Example: Trek Domane, Cannondale Synapse, Specialized Roubaix, Cervélo C-Series, Giant Defy, and Canyon Endurace

• Gravel Bikes 

• Less aggressive with wider gearing, typically with a more-stable position and increased tire clearance for versatility across pavement and mixed terrain.

• Example: Trek Checkpoint, Cannondale Topstone, Specialized Diverge, Cervélo Aspero, Giant Revolt, and Canyon Grail.

• Fitness Bikes

• Upright position with road-style gearing, designed for speed on pavement with comfort of flat handlebars. 

• Example: Trek FX, Cannondale Quick, Specialized Sirrus, Giant FastRoad, and Canyon Roadlite. 

It’s important to note that these example lists include some of the major US bike manufacturers. Each has its own design philosophy and warranties that set them apart. Models from reputable brands with solid warranties represent reliable choices.

Figuring out what makes a bike “good” really comes down to two things: body position and gearing. These are the parts that affect how hard it is to move the bike and how comfortable it feels. The write-up focuses on those two factors to help make sense of all the bike options out there.

Body Position: 

A rider’s body position is one of the most important factor in finding a “good bike” and it is largely determined by three key geometry measurements: seat tube angle, stack, and reach. These determine the rider’s core position on the bike and provide the best basis for comparing categories. Other stats, such as wheelbase, are excluded here since they influence handling more than rider position. Components like the seat post, saddle, handlebars, and stem are also not the focus, as they serve more for fine-tuning fit rather than defining the baseline geometry.

Seat tube angle sets the rider’s hip position: steeper angles push the rider forward for power and aerodynamics, while slacker angles move the rider back for comfort and endurance.

Stack measures vertical height from the bottom bracket, with lower stacks creating a more aggressive, aerodynamic posture and taller stacks encouraging a relaxed, upright position.

Reach is the horizontal distance from the bottom bracket, determining how far forward the rider stretches—affecting torso angle, weight distribution, and overall stability. Race road bikes, for example, combine steeper angles, lower stacks, and longer reaches to prioritize speed, while endurance bikes use more relaxed angles and shorter reaches to emphasize comfort over long distances.

• Race Road Bikes

• Seat Tube Angle: Steep; balanced forward position for power transfer and aerodynamics. (73.5°–74.5°)

• Stack Height: Lowest; allows an aggressive posture (520–560 mm)

• Reach: Longest; forward stretch for speed/aerodynamics (380–395 mm)

• Endurance Road Bikes

• Seat Tube Angle: Less Steep, More Slack; more upright and relaxed hip position. (72.5°–73.5°)

• Stack Height: High; torso less horizontal, improved comfort over long rides (540–580 mm)

• Reach: Long; keeps rider more upright to reduce strain on back and neck without compromising too much aerodynamics (370–385 mm)

• Gravel Bikes

• Seat Tube Angle: Less Steep, More Slack; more upright for stability. Similar to Endurance (72.5°–73.5°)

• Stack Height: High; more relaxed posture for long mixed-terrain rides (560–600 mm)

• Reach: Short; keeps rider more upright for control and comfort (370–385 mm)

• Fitness Bikes

• Seat Tube Angle: Less Steep, More Slack; more upright and relaxed hip position. Similar to Endurance. (72.5°–73.5°)

• Stack Height: Highest; very upright for comfort. (580-620mm)

• Reach: Shortest; with Flat Bars, most upright for comfort. (360-375mm)

At the far ends of the spectrum are time trial (TT) bikes and mountain bikes. TT bikes push the rider into maximum aerodynamic efficiency, with the steepest seat tube angles, the lowest stack heights, and the longest reaches. Mountain bikes take the opposite approach, with the slackest and most upright geometry combined with very low gearing—ideal for comfort and technical climbing, but slower on pavement. There are also bike frames that don’t fit neatly into the main categories, offering unique blends of geometry and purpose. For example, Gravel Race bikes provide a more aggressive stack and seat tube angle, similar to their road race counterparts, while accommodating wider tires for mixed-terrain riding. Examples include Trek Checkmate, Cannondale SuperX, Specialized Crux, and Cervélo Aspero.

Gearing: 

Gearing range determines how easy or hard it is to pedal in different conditions. High gears allow higher speeds on flat terrain, while low gears make climbing hills easier. Wide range gearing provides greater versatility for climbing and mixed terrain, but the larger jumps between cogs can push riders outside their most efficient cadence. This tradeoff becomes especially noticeable when a bike is used outside of its intended purpose. For example, a gravel bike on a fast paced paved group ride requires more effort to keep pace with a race road bike.

Because race road bikes are designed to excel in a very specific environment, race road bikes use tighter cassettes with smaller differences between cogs, prioritizing efficiency by keeping riders in a smooth and consistent cadence during fast group rides and races. Within the race road category, the industry further distinguishes between climbing focused bikes, which use slightly wider gearing to handle steep hills, and aero bikes, which focus on high speed efficiency with smaller range cassettes optimized for flat terrain.

Endurance, gravel, and fitness bikes, on the other hand, embrace wider range gearing to maximize versatility across mixed terrain. The tradeoff is larger jumps between gears, which can momentarily pull riders out of their most efficient cadence, but this allows them to tackle climbs, descents, and variable surfaces with greater adaptability.

• Race Road Bikes 

• Chainring: 53/39T (“Teeth”) or 52/36T (Bigger = Harder, Smaller = Easier)

• Cassette: 11-25T, 11-28T  (Bigger = Easier, Smaller = Harder): 

• Endurance Road Bikes 

• Chainring: 52/36T or 50/34T

• Cassette: 11-32T, 11-34T

• Gravel Bikes 

• Chainring: 46/30T, or 1-Chainring, aka “1x Setups” 40T, 42T

• Cassette: 11-42T, 10-44T, 10-51T

• Fitness Bikes

• Chainring: 50/34T or 48/32T

• Cassette: 11-32T, 11-34T

At the far ends of the spectrum are time trial (TT) bikes and mountain bikes. TT bikes are designed for pure speed on flat terrain, with the highest gearing to support fast cadences in an aerodynamic position. Chainrings with 54 teeth are common. Mountain bikes sit on the opposite end, using the lowest gearing to handle steep, technical climbs while sacrificing top speed on pavement. Many are equipped with chainrings as small as 36 teeth.

Is the Trek Checkpoint a Good Bike?

The Trek Checkpoint is designed as a versatile gravel bike, making it a solid option for riders who want a mix of paved and unpaved terrain, rolling hills, and varied riding conditions. Trek offers a strong warranty, and their R&D competes with top bike manufacturers sponsoring professional cyclists, so the frame and components are generally reliable. The Checkpoint combines wide-range gearing, stable geometry, and gravel-ready tire clearance, making it a true “jack-of-all-trades” bike. When properly sized, it will position the rider comfortably and efficiently across a range of terrain types.

However, gravel bikes like the Checkpoint are compromises by design. Compared to a race road bike, they have a slightly higher stack and more relaxed geometry, which reduces aerodynamic efficiency and top-end speed on flat pavement. The wider-range gearing that makes climbing and mixed-terrain riding easier can also make it harder to maintain a consistent cadence in fast group rides. They are much less aggressive than a race or TT bike, so riders seeking maximum speed on smooth roads may find them limiting.

The Checkpoint is the right bike if the goal is versatile gravel and mixed-terrain riding, and the rider is okay with the trade-offs in top-end speed. If those compromises conflict with those riding priorities, the Checkpoint may not be a “good” bike for that purpose.

My Setup: The Bike

As a beginner cyclist, I was steered toward endurance bikes for their comfort and versatility, and I ultimately purchased a 2023 Cannondale Synapse AL 2. My decision was largely based on budget and finding a geometry and fit that felt right. The Synapse AL 2 offered a balance of affordability and quality, with a relaxed endurance geometry that made longer rides comfortable. At the time, I wasn’t well versed in gear systems or technical specs, but by dumb luck, the bike came with a 50/34 chainring paired with an 11-34 cassette and a longer rear derailleur, which made climbing hills much more manageable than I expected. I am satisfied with the gearing choices on endurance bikes, as the 1x setups commonly found on gravel bikes would not have been effective for the type of riding I discovered I enjoy. Gravel bikes were just starting to emerge in 2023, and their tire clearances were only slightly wider than endurance bikes, often overlapping with cyclocross setups. Two years later, tire clearances on gravel bikes have grown to 2 inches, nearly matching those of mountain bikes, showing how quickly the category has expanded. My Synapse AL 2 has been a reliable starting point, teaching me the types of rides I enjoy and helping me understand what features matter most.